Looking for things to do in Birmingham can be a surprisingly depressing experience. A city once known as “the workshop of the world” now seems, at first glance, to be struggling to offer much at all. After nearly 40 years of calling Birmingham home, I can tell you it’s far better than its reputation suggests. No Brummie is going to claim it’s heaven on earth, but it’s also not the concrete shithole you may have been led to believe it is.

Birmingham is still England’s second city. A title it has worn with pride for as long as I can remember.  But this title is based on population alone. It’s fair to say that the city I will always call home is lagging behind its rivals in terms of culture and public perception. A quick look at one of the most popular “things to do” websites only adds fuel to the view that Birmingham has little to offer visitors in search of some Brummie charm.

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Come for the buses

Top of that list of things to do in Birmingham is a bus trip to the Cotswolds. A beautiful part of the country, sure, but it’s not in Birmingham. 

Third on the same list does involve spending some time in a beautiful city. But not Birmingham. This one is a 455km round trip to see Stonehenge and Bath. This trip starts and finishes in Birmingham, but that’s about it. Maybe we should put more care and effort into our bus terminals, as that’s all these tourists are getting to see of our industrial homeland. 

Sandwiched between them in second place is a Sea Life Centre. It might be in Birmingham, but it’s hardly a celebration of local wildlife. Unless, of course, the tanks have been stocked from the city’s canals. Forget coral reefs and sunken treasure. Shopping trolleys, traffic cones and thousands of soggy copies of the local free newspaper provide the natural habitat for Birmingham’s perch and pike.

Sadly, I’m fairly sure it’s just the usual collection of tropical fish that wouldn’t know a Black Sabbath song if Ozzy himself sang it to them.

How to spend 48 hours in Birmingham

As you can see, Birmingham has a problem. Which led me to think, what is the best way for tourists to spend a day or two here? To soak up some history, do what the Brummies do, and leave with the thought that ‘Actually, Birmingham’s alright’.

So, if I were to put my local tour guide hat on and show you the best of Brum, here’s what we’d do. 

Wanting to get off to a good start, we’d begin in Victoria Square. This is one of the few locations that gives Birmingham a sense of grandeur. Stand in the middle, spin round a few times, take some pictures, and if you fancy a dip with “The Floozie in the Jacuzzi”, go for it. But then it’s time for breakfast.

My favourite spot for brekky near Victoria Square is Medicine Bakery. Loads of freshly baked cakes, grilled sandwiches and traditional options are available. You’re sure to start your day well, maybe a little too well, but we’re trying to enjoy Birmingham here, remember, so we take decadence as and when we can. 

Seeing as we’re treating ourselves, next we’ll head up to the best view in the city. Just a short walk back through the square and you’ll arrive at 24 Stories. This is the highest rooftop bar in Birmingham. The only place to get panoramic views over the whole city. A pricey food menu is available, but if you want, you can simply sip on a Buck’s Fizz or two to help limber you up for the afternoon ahead. 

After descending from the clouds, take a walk through Chamberlain Square and the newly developed Paradise Circus until you get to the city’s central library. It’s the UK’s biggest, and also has the title of Europe’s largest public cultural space. Something that seems almost impossible to calculate considering all the variables, but we’ll take any positive title anyone wants to give us! 

You won’t miss the building. It’s the one that looks like a cruise ship made from a few giant LEGO bricks stacked up and wrapped in chicken wire. It’s free to enter and worth it, even for just a few minutes spent going up and down the escalators. Trust me on that one.

Next, it’s time for another coffee. Head out over Centenary Square to The Exchange. Officially part of Birmingham University, this café is based in the historic old municipal bank. The building itself is unchanged; it still has the small internal balcony where the old bank manager would be able to look over all that he ruled. The coffee and cakes are great here, so it’s worth taking the weight off for a while before you head into the more hedonistic part of town.

Ok, maybe I’m using that word quite loosely, but once you exit The Exchange and head left, you’re looking up at Broad Street, Birmingham’s golden mile. The city’s pub and club capital for decades. But we’re not heading for a crawl up Broad Street. Not on this tour. I’m trying to promote Birmingham, remember, and Broad Street does not show the best of Birmingham.

You’ll get a glimpse of a Wetherspoons, a Popworld and an Aussie Bar as you make your way to the next stop, but I recommend you fight the urge to go in. Instead, go and take a seat amongst Birmingham’s favourite sons at the Black Sabbath Bench, on Black Sabbath Bridge, Black Sabbathtown. Ok, I added the last one, but the first two are genuine. 

Once you’ve had your photo taken with the Prince of Darkness, it’s probably time for some food. And as luck, and a well-thought-out guide, would have it, you’re on the edge of Brindley Place, one of Birmingham’s premier restaurant zones. 

We’ve all got different tastes, and with so much choice around you, take a stroll around and see what takes your fancy. Personally, I’d head to SIAMAIS, but I’m a sucker for Thai food. 

There’ll be a temptation to leave your exploring legs here for the rest and enjoy the lively atmosphere and abundance on offer in Brindley Place, and that’s not a bad choice. If, though, you have a bit more in you and fancy a short canalside walk to another popular area, get down to the water’s edge and head over to The Mailbox. 

Once again, you’ll find a great selection of restaurants (my personal favourite is the tapas in Bar Estilo) and bars to keep you entertained until the early hours. But don’t overdo it. We’ve got another day of exploring to do tomorrow.

Wakey wakey, it’s time for day two!

Day two is all about two of Birmingham’s most historic neighbourhoods: the Jewellery Quarter and Digbeth. 

I recommend starting with the former. A good spot for breakfast, or brunch, depending on how much of a lie-in you gave yourself, is Damascena, a local chain of Syrian restaurants loved by Brummies. If you prefer something a tad more British, let’s say more on the bread and beans style, you’ll find Coffee Tales right next door.

After fueling yourself, it’s time for a bit of walking. The Jewellery Quarter is the reason why Birmingham was famously called the “City of a Thousand Trades”. Along these streets were master craftsmen who flourished in tiny workshops during the Industrial Revolution. 

I recommend heading to the Museum of the Jewellery Quarter to get a feel of what this neighbourhood was all about, then meander your way back to the centre, and do the best thing to continue this cultural experience: go to the pub. 

I’m not advocating alcohol consumption here; there are always soft drinks available after all, but taking some time to appreciate the 107-year-old, Grade II-listed Rose Villa Tavern is one of the best ways to get a feel for old Birmingham. Unlike most traditional boozers in the city, the Rose hasn’t lost its original features. So if you’re looking for an excuse for a lunchtime pint, this is as good as it gets. 

If and when you drag yourself out of the pub (don’t worry, you’ll be back in one before you know it), take a stroll down to St Paul’s Square. A small but charming leafy spot where you can grab a coffee and relax for a while if you so wish. If you’re more in need of food than caffeine, take a few steps around the corner and head on into Saint Paul’s Market. This is one of the city’s newest food courts, and is a great place to grab anything from a snack to a full-on feast. 

If you’re up for it, there’s still one place you need to check out: Digbeth. I don’t recommend walking. Either get a taxi or the tram. There’s a tram stop next to St Paul’s, which will take you most, or all of the way, depending on when you visit, as they’re putting the final touches to the Digbeth tramline at the time of me writing this. 

Either way, get yourself to the Custard Factory. This is the original Bird’s factory, revamped into the cool, creative heartbeat of Birmingham. It’s littered with trendy independent coffee shops, bars and restaurants. As are the surrounding streets. This neighbourhood is unlike any other in the city.

Take some time to explore, see what intrigues you and enjoy the treats you find hidden in Digbeth’s railway arches and old brick warehouses. I’d recommend a stop-off at The Old Crown, Birmingham’s oldest pub, dating back to 1368. Here you can get yourself some of the finest pub grub around, and maybe a final tipple or two to end your 48 hours in Brum.

I’d like to apologise to all of the fine establishments that I haven’t mentioned above. Of course, there are other things to do in Birmingham, but I didn’t want to only give lists of the best pubs, best restaurants and best shops to go to. Others have done that plenty already. 

This was a mission to give visitors to my home city a loose guide to 48 hours that makes them say “Actually, Birmingham’s alright”. And I think I’ve succeeded.